Mombasa: Fort Jesus and Jesus Save Me! Edition

Today finally decided to actually conform to Kenya's rainy season reputation and rained off and on all day.  Our dear friends Marilyn and Chris sadly checked out of paradise (otherwise known as the Kenya Bay Hotel) and moved to a hotel far less glamorous in downtown Mombasa.  We all shared a taxi to their hotel and explored together for the day.  We went on a walking tour of Mombasa and its Old Town, including its renouned spice market and Fort Jesus.   The spice market was very cool, far less spices than we had thought but being the only tourists around, we attracted quite a following.  Marilyn and Nathan could not escape without first sampling a passion fruit.  Nathan reports that it was "SO delicious" while I am awaiting intestinal issues to result, hence my refusal to try it.  We walked through the streets which had an old italian-vibe actually.   Fort Jesus was amazing, it was odd to us that we could freely roam around and walk on the same coral rock ground and steps that so many had years before.  The on and off again showers forced all of us to scatter during which we sought shelter and explored on our own.  Nate and I found eachtother later and had to hide out in the "Old Ammunition Room" which now resembles a dark and unlit stone cave in which deadly spiders and unknown perils exist.   After taking in the amazing view of the bay from the fort (which is the farthest point out on the bay), we walked some more and found a piece of international "wandering" art.  Chris and Marilyn told us about it:  Apparently, since the 80s, some artist has been traveling the world and he works in mosaics.  He creates alien/space invader type pictures and then places them on buildings.  There is a website dedicated to this and we will pass it on once we recieve it from them.  But we found one as we were walking in Old Town!   Then the rain started up once more and we ducked into an unlabeled restaurant, which was comprised on a plastic table and 5 plastic chairs.  No one spoke English and sadly, I have not been practicing my Swahili.  We tried to find some phrases in M & C's Lonely Planet guide, while the owner brought us a plate with some dark substance on it.  We couldn't understand what he meant so another customer told us, "Liver.  Fresh liver."  M being vegetarian, and the rest of us being nowhere brave enough to try this daily special, made a graceful exit as the rain had stopped.   We then wandered back to the start and ducked into another restaurant, this one named the "Blue Bubbles Restaurant" where we had a mini feast:  1/4 orders of chicken for the boys with rice and a chicken-based-sauce (we think) with greens, samosas, chapati (bread) and some more greens for Marilyn.  The food was really good, lets just pray we don't all pray to the porcelain gods tonight.   We then decided to go see the famous Tusk Arc in Mombasa.  We walked and were filled with excitement as we got closer and could view them in the distance.  Nathan speculated that perhaps they were real tusks, Chris however doubted this strongly but respectfully.  Our hopes were dashed as we got closer and realized they were made of rusting iron and remembled the McDonald's arches.  (Funny side note:  M & C visited a McDonald's in Cairo and there is a sandwhich called the McArabia which consists of two beef patties in a pita and its description reads:  two all beef-patties wrapped in culture, no joke!)   The lovely couple then walked us to the train station so Nate and I could buy our overnight train tickets to Nairobi for Thursday.  The train station resembles a left-over set from the movie Thunderdome.  It makes more sense as to why only 1 train is left running after seeing this.  However, it shall be an adventure!  We then walked back to the couple's hotel and stopped into a Tuskys, a local grocery store, and bought some supplies.  Then we said goodbye, inviting them refuge from downtown Mombasa and back to paradise if they wished before we checked out.  (By the way, M & C are traveling the world for a WHOLE YEAR!  They have already been to Europe and are doing Africa now, then off to Asia and Australia.  They are amazing and Nathan and I will miss them but hope to keep in contact with our respective blogs.  Nate and Marilyn had many Ohio connections and M even had two contacts Nate may use in his research here!)   The cab started off fine, minus the fact that our driver was probably partly blind, not noticing thigh-high speed bumps and cavernous potholes until the car was slammed back to earth after catapolting through the air, to which he would nervously reply, "hahaha, bumpy."  After a clip-curb and several near collisions, I was pretty sure it was Mr. Magoo driving us.  Now, the man was kind enough, but I was slightly concerned for our safety.   The taxi ride is a good 25 mins or so and after about 15 the man pulled off to get some gas.  Nate and I believe that he and the attendant has miscommunication and diesel was actually put into the car, because a minute after pulling away, the driver was stamping on the gas pedal in an attempt to keep the car moving.  Normally, this would scare me enough to get another cab, but I tried to keep faith.  The car accelerated again only to then putter out and the man pulled over to the side of the road.  He tried in vain to restart the car as Nate and I shared nervous, scared-shitless looks once again.   The man did not speak English and then wanted money for gas.  Nate handed him Ksh200 and the man walked back for gas.  We debated jumping ship and getting a matatu (an amusment park-type ride which is like a bus, only the form of a large van with as many passengers as possible crammed inside).  M & C had taken them the previous day and insisted we try it, and now it seemed we had to choice.  The sun was starting to go down and have the two of us sitting in the back of a broken down taxi on the side of the road was not how I wanted to spend my evening.  Just as we jumped out to grab a matatu, the man came back and put gas into the car.  However, it did not start.  We got out to take a matatu and left the taxi, hoping the old man was able to make it back to Mombasa.   We got into a matatu and were seated in the last and fifth row of seats, packed in like sardines.  There is a two man crew, a driver and a man who opens the door as the car never quite reaches a full-stop as people hop on.  The door man bangs on the roof of the van when he needs the driver to stop or wants to pick more passengers up.  They yell out the door as the van is driving, a solicitation technique.  It was quite an experience, and at a mere Ksh40, quite a steal, if you can handle the crowding and dangerous driving.   We made it back safely and are updating before retiring for some much needed liquid refreshment after our long and harrowing ride home.  Tomorrow we will post some pics of our journey, hope you are all doing well!   Kyle